Replacing Irrigation Timer / Controller Wiring
When replacing your lawn sprinkler timer, a.k.a. controller, it can be a simple process or can quickly turn into a complicated, frustrated ordeal that cannot figure how to get working. I can give you some tips to help you with this because I've already experienced it myself and with training numerous employees.
Replacing your timer will very depending on model and type but there are two main types, Digital, and Mechanical. Digital have the LCD screens with the time, a dial to select different settings, and push buttons to make different adjustments. Mechanical timers have a time and day wheel dial and also pins to use for the setting of time on each sprinkler zone.
There are also Electro-Mechanical timers such as the Rain Bird RC series timer which are now discontinued, but there are still many out three working strong. Electro-mechanical timers have dials but still use electric valves to operate the zones and have very similar type of wiring as digital timers. In today's blog I will cover how to replace digital timers. In my next blog I will explain how to replace a mechanical timers.
Digital timers run on 110V (approx + or - 10 %) and have a 24V transformer inside them to step-down the voltage for the circuit board and to send correct voltage to the solenoids on electric valves.
Step 1: Turn off the power supply to the timer. This may be a breaker outside, in the garage, or may just be a plug in the wall for indoor timers. (If your's is plugged into a normal wall socket you may skip to step X).
Step 2: Expose the HV to transformer connection. To get to this you may have to remove a junction box cover with small screws. As long as you have no voltage, then proceed to removing the wire splices at the timer. Before removing any wiring, write down everything! It should be as simple as green to ground, black to black, and white to white, but if you did not install it yourself you never know what kind of strange wiring someone may have rigged up. Write down everything, heck take a picture with your camera phone!
Step 3. Use your multi-meter to make sure you have shut off the correct breaker. Carefully remove any wire nuts covering the connection or contact points. If you are still getting voltage, then you don't have the correct breaker or may have a deeper electrical problem. Check your circuit breaker panel, but then call an electrician if you cannot figure it out or do not feel safe doing it!
Step 4. Loosen and undo the conduit at the timer for the irrigation wiring. IMPORTANT DO NOT REMOVE ANY WIRES YET!
Step 5: Expose to irrigation wires leading to the zones spots on the timer/controller. Usually this as simple as opening the timer panel, or removing a small plastic plate by hand or with screws with some models.
Step 5: Write down what color wire goes to each individual spot on the timer. For example, your "MV" or "Master valve is very important. If the "MV spot has a red wire on it, then write down "MV-Red". The "Com" spot is another important one to get correct or nothing else will work right. Write down "com-white". If there are two or three commons because of the master valve and numerous multi-strand wires leading in the timer then just write "com-3whites". You will typically have more than one common. If the color of the wire is blue for station or zone 1 write "1-blue". I'm sure you get the picture. *If your system was done in all the same color wires, you should use a label gun or white stickers and label or write down the number of each zone.
Step 6: Now remove the irrigation wiring from the timer. Also Pull out the conduit after loosening the conduit adapter fitting. Depending on the model sprinkler timer, the wire will be held on the terminal with a screw, or it may have a small lever to push to release and remove the wire. I would say that most have models use Phillip head screws.
Step 7: Remove the old box/timer from the wall or mounted spot. Most timers are mounted with screws.
Step 8: Mount your new box. IMPORTANT - Make sure that your irrigation wires and HV wires are going to reach to the correct spot on the new timer. If you are replacing with a different model controller, then you may have to mount the new clock slightly lower or to the side depending. If you have this problem and still want your new timer in the same spot, you will have to make splices, but I do not recommend this! Every splice is a potential problem. Remember, the less splices, the better!
Step 9: Connect your irrigation wiring. Use your notes and connect every wire to the correct spot.
Step 10. Reconnect your HV wiring
Step 11. Secure your conduit fittings.
Step 12: Turn your breaker back on or plug the timer into the wall.
Step 13: Test your system. Make sure that each zone is working.
Good luck and hope this info helps! If you have any questions, feel free to contact me.
Scott
http://www.autolawnsprinklers.com
Replacing your timer will very depending on model and type but there are two main types, Digital, and Mechanical. Digital have the LCD screens with the time, a dial to select different settings, and push buttons to make different adjustments. Mechanical timers have a time and day wheel dial and also pins to use for the setting of time on each sprinkler zone.
There are also Electro-Mechanical timers such as the Rain Bird RC series timer which are now discontinued, but there are still many out three working strong. Electro-mechanical timers have dials but still use electric valves to operate the zones and have very similar type of wiring as digital timers. In today's blog I will cover how to replace digital timers. In my next blog I will explain how to replace a mechanical timers.
Digital timers run on 110V (approx + or - 10 %) and have a 24V transformer inside them to step-down the voltage for the circuit board and to send correct voltage to the solenoids on electric valves.
Step 1: Turn off the power supply to the timer. This may be a breaker outside, in the garage, or may just be a plug in the wall for indoor timers. (If your's is plugged into a normal wall socket you may skip to step X).
Step 2: Expose the HV to transformer connection. To get to this you may have to remove a junction box cover with small screws. As long as you have no voltage, then proceed to removing the wire splices at the timer. Before removing any wiring, write down everything! It should be as simple as green to ground, black to black, and white to white, but if you did not install it yourself you never know what kind of strange wiring someone may have rigged up. Write down everything, heck take a picture with your camera phone!
Step 3. Use your multi-meter to make sure you have shut off the correct breaker. Carefully remove any wire nuts covering the connection or contact points. If you are still getting voltage, then you don't have the correct breaker or may have a deeper electrical problem. Check your circuit breaker panel, but then call an electrician if you cannot figure it out or do not feel safe doing it!
Step 4. Loosen and undo the conduit at the timer for the irrigation wiring. IMPORTANT DO NOT REMOVE ANY WIRES YET!
Step 5: Expose to irrigation wires leading to the zones spots on the timer/controller. Usually this as simple as opening the timer panel, or removing a small plastic plate by hand or with screws with some models.
Step 5: Write down what color wire goes to each individual spot on the timer. For example, your "MV" or "Master valve is very important. If the "MV spot has a red wire on it, then write down "MV-Red". The "Com" spot is another important one to get correct or nothing else will work right. Write down "com-white". If there are two or three commons because of the master valve and numerous multi-strand wires leading in the timer then just write "com-3whites". You will typically have more than one common. If the color of the wire is blue for station or zone 1 write "1-blue". I'm sure you get the picture. *If your system was done in all the same color wires, you should use a label gun or white stickers and label or write down the number of each zone.
Step 6: Now remove the irrigation wiring from the timer. Also Pull out the conduit after loosening the conduit adapter fitting. Depending on the model sprinkler timer, the wire will be held on the terminal with a screw, or it may have a small lever to push to release and remove the wire. I would say that most have models use Phillip head screws.
Step 7: Remove the old box/timer from the wall or mounted spot. Most timers are mounted with screws.
Step 8: Mount your new box. IMPORTANT - Make sure that your irrigation wires and HV wires are going to reach to the correct spot on the new timer. If you are replacing with a different model controller, then you may have to mount the new clock slightly lower or to the side depending. If you have this problem and still want your new timer in the same spot, you will have to make splices, but I do not recommend this! Every splice is a potential problem. Remember, the less splices, the better!
Step 9: Connect your irrigation wiring. Use your notes and connect every wire to the correct spot.
Step 10. Reconnect your HV wiring
Step 11. Secure your conduit fittings.
Step 12: Turn your breaker back on or plug the timer into the wall.
Step 13: Test your system. Make sure that each zone is working.
Good luck and hope this info helps! If you have any questions, feel free to contact me.
Scott
http://www.autolawnsprinklers.com
posted by Irrigationman at
9:40 AM
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