Pulling and Replacing Submersible Pumps
Today we replaced a 3hp 50 gpm (3 horse power/ 50 gallons per minute) submersible pump. The well the 362 feet deep. The pump was hanging on the standard 20 foot sticks of 1&1/4" schedule 80 PVC. The pump / drop pipe was only hanging 160 feet. The depth to the water table was close to 90 feet.
We replaced the old pump and 12-gauge solid strand twisted 4 wire. The colors are red, black, yellow, and green. The type of sub pump that we use is called a "3 wire motor" even though there are four wires, they don't count the green ground wire I guess! There are also two wire submersible motors available (actually have three wires including the ground), but I do not use them and recommend against them.
The three wire motor has the main advantage of utilizing a piece called a control box which contains the starter capacitors and relays and this box is installed above ground. A two wire motor has the start capacitor together with the motor. The reason why this is bad is because the most common thing for to go out on a sub is the start capacitor or relay and if your system only has a three wire motor, you will have to extract and replace the whole pump! If you use a three wire motor, when the start capacitor or relay in the control box goes out, it is easily replaced above ground without having to remove 200, 400, 600 feet of pipe or even more!
If you do not have a specialty truck with a wench and proper pipe clamps this process can be a labor intensive task, but can be done with the use of another specialty tool. A pipe pulling clamp will help hold the pipe has you pull it up and remove it. Every twenty (20ft) feet there will be a threaded connection that you must undo. The pipe pulling clamp help hold the weight of the rest of the pipe and sub pump so that it does not fall to the bottom of the well!
Be prepared do get covered in water because every 20 feet you will have to unscrew the metal or galvanized coupling and water will rush out fast on you! I have seen a few sub pump hanging with schedule 40 PVC, on glue fittings, but the majority of subs are on 1&1/4", 1&1/2" or 2" schedule 80 male threaded pipe ends.
When replacing submersible pumps, we normally replace all the wire just to be on the safe side. You can end up nicking the wire as the pump is pulled up and removed, plus the wires could have a short in them, so it is best to put new wire in. I don't replace the drop pipe unless it looks in horrible shape, or is the wrong type.
It's not an easy job, but a satisfying one, that is for sure. If you ever have any questions regarding sprinklers, irrigation, and pumps, feel free to contact me and I'd be glad to help you!
Scott Young
http://www.autolawnsprinklers.com
We replaced the old pump and 12-gauge solid strand twisted 4 wire. The colors are red, black, yellow, and green. The type of sub pump that we use is called a "3 wire motor" even though there are four wires, they don't count the green ground wire I guess! There are also two wire submersible motors available (actually have three wires including the ground), but I do not use them and recommend against them.
The three wire motor has the main advantage of utilizing a piece called a control box which contains the starter capacitors and relays and this box is installed above ground. A two wire motor has the start capacitor together with the motor. The reason why this is bad is because the most common thing for to go out on a sub is the start capacitor or relay and if your system only has a three wire motor, you will have to extract and replace the whole pump! If you use a three wire motor, when the start capacitor or relay in the control box goes out, it is easily replaced above ground without having to remove 200, 400, 600 feet of pipe or even more!
If you do not have a specialty truck with a wench and proper pipe clamps this process can be a labor intensive task, but can be done with the use of another specialty tool. A pipe pulling clamp will help hold the pipe has you pull it up and remove it. Every twenty (20ft) feet there will be a threaded connection that you must undo. The pipe pulling clamp help hold the weight of the rest of the pipe and sub pump so that it does not fall to the bottom of the well!
Be prepared do get covered in water because every 20 feet you will have to unscrew the metal or galvanized coupling and water will rush out fast on you! I have seen a few sub pump hanging with schedule 40 PVC, on glue fittings, but the majority of subs are on 1&1/4", 1&1/2" or 2" schedule 80 male threaded pipe ends.
When replacing submersible pumps, we normally replace all the wire just to be on the safe side. You can end up nicking the wire as the pump is pulled up and removed, plus the wires could have a short in them, so it is best to put new wire in. I don't replace the drop pipe unless it looks in horrible shape, or is the wrong type.
It's not an easy job, but a satisfying one, that is for sure. If you ever have any questions regarding sprinklers, irrigation, and pumps, feel free to contact me and I'd be glad to help you!
Scott Young
http://www.autolawnsprinklers.com
posted by Irrigationman at
11:15 PM
<< Home