Saturday, May 24, 2008

Lower, Raise, and/or Straighten Your Crooked Heads

Some very common problems with landscape irrigation systems that are several years old are that the sprinkler heads tend to get out of alignment in one way or another. The sprinkler heads may end up crooked, too high, or even too low. These are all issues that can be resolved with a little work.

Sprinkler systems that have the heads connected to the pvc with swing assemblies tend to need the heads straightened every few years or so depending on the soil and landscape conditions. Sprinkler connected via these swing assemblies that are build with funny pipe can be easily straightened by digging around and under the heads and then carefully moving the head into place and then pack the dirt around it. The heads may also be lowered or raised in this fashion.

Systems that have the sprinkler heads connected directly to the PVC will require more work to lower, raise, or straighten. I suggest adding swing assemblies to systems built this way because it will prevent PVC breaks in the future if the head gets bumped by a lawn mower or person. Systems that are build with heads directly into the PVC tend to break the PVC when the head gets bumped.

Adding a swing assembly is fairly easy. First dig a hole slightly under, around, and to the side of the threaded fitting where the head is. Next remove the head, then remove the threaded fitting that connects the head to the PVC (this may come out when you remove the head). You'll then use a 1/2" or 3/4" marlex or (street el) on the male threaded side and thread it into the female threaded fitting on the PVC where the head was attached. Next use a 1/2" or 3/4" spiral barb (Rainbird sbe-050 or sbe-075) to connect to the marlex. You'll then attach about 6 inches to 1 foot of funny pipe or flex pe pipe, to the spiral barb. On the opposite end of the swing assembly you'll want another spiral barb and marlex combination. You'll then attach the sprinkler head to the marlex on that side. Your sprinkler head may end up a few inches away from it's original position, but you can straighten, lower, or raise it very easily.

Another solution to heads that are too low or to bump up to a bigger size pop up head. I see many older systems with 2" and 3" pop-up spray heads. The smallest pop-up sprays that I use are 4" (Rainbird 1804 series). I'll use 6" heads in thicker, higher cut grasses such as St. Augustine.

Scott
http://www.autolawnsprinklers.com

Wednesday, May 21, 2008

Setting your irrigation timer

Programming or setting your lawn sprinkler or irrigation controller should be part of the routine maintenance on your landscape irrigation system. Different types grasses have different water needs. Your soil condition also has a lot to do with programming your timer. In the Southeastern region of the United States, centipede grass or sod is commonly used on residential and commercial landscapes and has a water requirement of approximately 2" of water per week.

With a sandy, permeable soil you can water longer which is good. If your soil is less sandy and more clay and dense ground, you will have to water for shorter, but more frequent number of cycles. On an average yard that I install or maintenance in this area of Northwest Florida, I program the rotor head zones to run for 45 minutes to one hour and the spray head zones to run for 10 - 20 minutes. I program the systems to run 3 days a week, usually a Monday, Wednesday, Friday schedule and off on Tuesdays, Thursdays, and the weekend. If one the the system run days interferes with a lawn or landscape maintenance day with the customers property. In this case I'll schedule around the work and program the timer to run the system for different days.

I normally program and recommend that you program your irrigation timer to run in the early morning hours. This is the best time to run for must residential grasses. The lawn will absorb up the majority of the water and loose very little to evaporation as the sun comes up and heats up the earth.

However, there are times such as on large commercial systems (such as around a business) where starting the system to run in the early morning hours will not work because the sprinklers do not need to be running while people are walking around the parking lot and the building. Over-spray from a light breeze can get water on the sidewalks and roads which becomes a liability for the business. In this case I set the timers to start running in the evening or in the middle of the night depending on the number of zones and total run time.

When setting your timer, keep in mind that you want to water for as long and as less frequent as possible. You want the water to go deep, so that the roots learn to search deep for water and develop a good root structure, which will prove for a healthier lawn. Also, make sure to have a rain sensor installed so that you are not watering unnecessarily.

It also will help your lawn if you change up your watering schedule once in a while. There have been reports that show watering on schedule can make for a weaker lawn. I maintain many systems on which I have on a regular watering schedule, which is usually only changed up by programming the systems to run once a week for a few months during the winter and these yards are immaculate. They are beautiful due to the total care of the owner with issues such as irrigation, pest control, weed control, other landscape and lawn maintenance.

Scott
http://www.autolawnsprinklers.com