Stuck Foot Valve

I'm about to go to remove a stuck foot valve from a 2" PVC well. The foot valve hangs on 1&1/4" schedule 40 PVC drop pipe and has a jet close to the bottom of the drop pipe. The well is about 50 feet and the drop pipe is only about 35 feet.

The foot valve assemblies here are assembled with pieces called spring dogs & rubber packers which expand to help hold prime with the foot valve. Some contractors use "leathers" to hold prime, but the leathers tend to break down sooner over time and can also get stuck when being pulled up...we prefer the spring dog and rubber grommet/packer system. However, other issues and factors beyond our control produce problems that must be solved with some out of the box thinking and good old American Ingenuity.

I will give away a few trade secrets, but not all..maybe I'll sell those later. Here are a few tips and solutions to help you get out a stuck foot valve or drop pipe on a jet pump setup:

1. If the drop pipe is broken, remove the PVC out of well that has broken off.

2. Use an "extractor" a.k.a. "1&/4" tap" assembled to the end of a stick 1&1/4" galvanized.

3. Insert the extractor inside the 1&1/4 drop pipe and tighten to make new threads inside

4. Once the extractor is definitively tapped in, then you must slowly back off (turn the 1&1/4 pipe counter clockwise to loosen the neoprene grommet (this part of the step is not necessary if your drop pipe hangs with leathers.

5. Gently pull up the drop pipe. Do not yank! This will cause pipe breakage! You must apply equal force on both side, so it helps to have a 2nd hand. You may need to cut it every 20 feet if your are not experienced. If you do it carefully you can avoid cutting the drop pipe and string it up in some trees if there are some nearby. If you do have to cut, make sure to use "tapered" 11&1/4" thin couplings for your joints or connections.

6. Your drop pipe is removed from the well and you can now replace your foot valve! Be sure to clean or replace the jet if needed. It corrodes over time and also sediment gets built up inside which can seriously reduce flow and eventually clog up the jet. If the jet is just clogged and not corroded you can clean out the passage ways with a flat head screwdriver and rinsing it out with water. If it is really corroded, then I would recommend replacing it with a new one.

Scott

http://www.autolawnsprinklers.com

Rotors Vs. Spray Heads

The two most commonly used type of heads in automatic lawn sprinkler systems are either rotor/ rotary style heads or spray heads that do not rotate. Rotors rotate or move and thus have a lower precipitation rate than spray heads. In other words it takes a zone of rotors longer to apply the same amount of water per square foot than fixed spray heads.

Spray heads do not rotate and have a higher precipitation rate. That is they get the area watering quicker or faster. It is common sense really. Since the water is constantly being saturated and not moved past like with a rotor, it will get watered faster.

However, rotors and sprays have the place,. It all depends on design and size of the landscape on what type of heads are best to use. The average house will have a combination of rotors and sprays zones and maybe even drip zones.

I like rotor heads because they do not tend to get clogged as easy as spray head nozzles. Most rotors seem more durable than the average spray head also. Rotors cover larger areas so, there are less heads used. But spray heads have there place where it is just too small for rotors.

The main advantage of sprays is that you can get your watering done faster. If you have a limited window, then spray heads are the faster at applying water down to the landscape. Rotor heads are great for larger areas and will require less maintenance, but you will have to water the rotor heads slightly longer, about 3X longer than sprays for the same amount of water. They both have their pros & cons, but are both needed in specific situations.

Scott
http://www.autolawnsprinklers.com