Replacing Irrigation Timer / Controller
Replacing your automatic lawn sprinkler system's automatic controller or timer can be a pretty easy process as long as you aren't afraid of dealing with wires. If you've ever installed a car stereo, don't worry, it is even easier. But you must have some basic understanding of electricity and if you aren't comfortable using a multi-meter, then you may want to call of professional.
Most automatic timers are supplied with a 110/120 volt (+ or - 10%) power source, which is converted by a transformer which steps down the power to approximately 24 volts to keep the time, date, program schedule, etc...
The main thing is that you right down which color wire is used for each zone as well as the common on MV (master valve wires). If the same color from a different strand is used more than once, then you must do something to distinguish the wire such as twisting it, striping the insulation slightly, or cutting it a bit shorter (careful now, not too short).
Writing down the wire color for each zone or station + the other critical connection points will avoid confusion and make sure you have little to no problems as well as getting the system to run in the same sequence as before.
When switching a timer to a different model, you may have to drill new screw holes in your wood, stucco, vinyl, or brick and/or mortar, depending on your houses siding. When doing this, a good tip is to mount the timer according to the height of the upcoming valve wires and the high voltage conduit. This will make sure that you don't have any hazardous splices or worse yet, having to re-wire all those as well!
One more thing that I want to mentioned, because I get asked it pretty regularly: If you have a dial timer with built-in relay such as a Hydrotech or Intermatic, then you cannot switch to a digital timer without a lot of other tasks such as switching to electric valves or using an electric valve as a master valve and also adding a pump-start relay and all necessary connections. It can be done, but costs a lot more than just switching to a similar type timer.
Scott
http://www.autolawnsprinklers.com
Most automatic timers are supplied with a 110/120 volt (+ or - 10%) power source, which is converted by a transformer which steps down the power to approximately 24 volts to keep the time, date, program schedule, etc...
The main thing is that you right down which color wire is used for each zone as well as the common on MV (master valve wires). If the same color from a different strand is used more than once, then you must do something to distinguish the wire such as twisting it, striping the insulation slightly, or cutting it a bit shorter (careful now, not too short).
Writing down the wire color for each zone or station + the other critical connection points will avoid confusion and make sure you have little to no problems as well as getting the system to run in the same sequence as before.
When switching a timer to a different model, you may have to drill new screw holes in your wood, stucco, vinyl, or brick and/or mortar, depending on your houses siding. When doing this, a good tip is to mount the timer according to the height of the upcoming valve wires and the high voltage conduit. This will make sure that you don't have any hazardous splices or worse yet, having to re-wire all those as well!
One more thing that I want to mentioned, because I get asked it pretty regularly: If you have a dial timer with built-in relay such as a Hydrotech or Intermatic, then you cannot switch to a digital timer without a lot of other tasks such as switching to electric valves or using an electric valve as a master valve and also adding a pump-start relay and all necessary connections. It can be done, but costs a lot more than just switching to a similar type timer.
Scott
http://www.autolawnsprinklers.com
posted by Irrigationman at
9:18 PM
<< Home