Lawn Sprinkler Tips

Hot Weather and Dry Spots

2009-06-28T09:20:00.000-07:00

Wow, it sure has been dry around here! Other than a brief 30 minute rain yesterday, we have gone almost three weeks without a drop of precipitation here in Okaloosa County in Northwest Florida. About the most moisture we've had is the almost unbearable humidity in the air. This type of weather brings out all of the problems and inefficiencies in an automatic lawn sprinkler system.

The goal when designing a lawn sprinkler system is to get even precipitation across the entire lawn. This way you avoid under-watering or over-watering certain areas. This is much easier said than done. Even with a text-book perfect design, things like varying soil conditions, sun/shade, and different types of grass or plant material can prove to make even watering a very challenging project.

Today I am taking a much needed day of rest as I work six days a week during our busy season. Last Monday I added 57 new service calls on top of my already huge list of clients waiting for myself and my company to visit their home or business to repair their lawn sprinkler system. I have been working furiously to keep up with the work load as well as continuing to take new calls. Together, my partner and I have been knocking out about 10 -15 house visits per day. These repairs range anywhere from systems that need new pumps and timers, to just a simple sprinkler head replacement and everything else in between.

Sometime you may go to a house expecting just a simple sprinkler head replacement and then when you arrive you realize that the system needs much more attention than just a quick repair. This is one factor that makes predicting the amount of time that you'll spend at one particular house very hard to determine. However, I do my best to give customers at least an approximate day and time block that I will arrive at the house. This is forever changing due to unknowns that you may run into when inspecting and repairing a sprinkler system.

I understand how waiting for a service tech to visit your house and fix your system can be frustrating when you have your own schedule and things to do, but please be understanding to these sprinkler system companies and service techs. I assure you that we are working as hard and fast as possible to address every customer's individual irrigation system issues. As a consumer myself I clearly understand how waiting on a repair man to help you can be frustrating, but as a business owner I see both sides. As a customer you clearly have the right to demand good and prompt service, but you may need to make several different phone calls until you find a company that can get to you quickly. You also may need to be a little patient as most any reputable person who has been in this business for a number of years will have a big client base built up and get behind with the rush of phone calls that a drought will cause.

Some things are unpredictable such as a lawn pump or irrigation controller/timer just going out, but I do see several things on sprinkler systems that could have been addressed and repaired long before the hot summer months. One thing you can do to prevent having an "irrigation emergency" is to plan ahead. Don't wait until Summer or even Spring to have your irrigation system inspected. Call during Winter (of course not in all climates). You will get much quicker service and probably even better pricing. Hardly anybody is thinking of their sprinklers in the off-season and this is the perfect time to take care of issues instead of waiting until Summer and your lawn is dying.

Also, please don't lay new sod or grass and then realize you don't have proper sprinkler system coverage. You would not believe how many people spend hundreds or even thousands of dollars on new grass and then realize that they have poor sprinkler system coverage! If you are planning to re-landscape or re-sod your yard, check out your sprinklers first! You could find yourself stuck having to manually water and drag around a hose until a sprinkler system company can show up. Also, if you lay new grass and then discover you need a sprinkler head added, or even a whole new zone added, the grass will have to be removed or disturbed in order to do the irrigation work. This makes the irrigation techs' jobs a lot more time consuming, which in turn will cost you more money.

With a little common sense and planning, many people can avoid the Summer rush and be worry-free about their lawn and landscape through the hot season. As I already mentioned their are certain things that are unpredictable like broken pipes or pumps and this is not your fault, but make sure to call as soon as possible to get it repaired because you may be in for a little wait. Another tip: be courteous to your lawn sprinkler technician as well as any other service person that would repair something or service you. Remember, it is not their fault that your lawn and/or landscape is having problems. They are just a person trying to work as hard and fast as they can under very difficult weather and working conditions, as well as a heavy work load. Being a little courteous and understanding, rather than being inconsiderate and demanding can be the difference between getting your sprinkler system visit sooner than later:)

Scott
http://www.autolawnsprinklers.com
http://www.advancedirrigationsystems.net

Best Time Of Day To Water Grass

2009-06-05T20:52:00.000-07:00

A common question that I get asked is, "What time of day or night is the best or optimum time to water your lawn and landscape?" The best time to water your grass is in the early morning hours.

You don't want to water too early or in the middle of the night if you don't have to because if you get all your watering done while it is still dark and it sits for too long it can cause mold, fungus, and mushrooms in your yard.

If you water too late, the sun will evaporate much of the water and the lawn could not get enough as the water is being wasted. Also, if you water too late in the day, the sun can burn the blades of the grass because it is high in the sky and the water on the grass magnifies the sun's UV rays.

So, try and water between in the early morning. Obviously there are several different factors that may determine your watering window such as having to water at night at commercial buildings, or having a lot of zones with several hours of cycle run time, but do your best to center your program around the early morning hours if possible.

Scott

http://www.autolawnsprinklers.com

Do It Yourself Landscape Irrigation Info

2009-05-28T17:03:00.000-07:00

Okay, so you are probably here because your are on the Internet searching for information on landscape irrigation or automatic lawn sprinkler systems. You most likely are a homeowner who cares about your lawn, landscape, and/or garden as well as the overall curb appeal of your home. Well, my friend you are not alone. Tens of thousands of people visit my site each month looking for information about automatic sprinkler systems such as how to design , how to plan, how to build, and even how to repair existing lawn sprinkler systems.

Designing and building an irrigation system is a mixture of technical abilities and artistic imagination making use of both the left side and right side of your brain. While you can learn a ton of educational information from books and guides about the technical aspects of sprinkler design, you will be forced to use your imagination and visualize when it comes down to actual on-site design and planning.

The reason why you must use both sides of your brain is because no matter how perfect of a design you think you have, when you start the actual project you may find several different factors not accounted for in the plan. As you know, the "real world" has a way of throwing curve balls at you. One example of this is having to relocate or move your pipe because an obstacle such as a big, existing tree that was not shown in the plans.

Not to worry though, there is always room for a little bit of fluctuation or changes. While water physics and irrigation design is a science with specific rules and properties, you want to design your system so you have the ability to change or modify as needed. In my book I teach you about water volume and pressure, as well as the process of designing your system with a built-in error factor. Basically what I mean by this is to leave yourself room to add or move a sprinkler head on any zone.

There are several things you must learn to accomplish "Do it yourself Irrigation" correctly, but anyone can learn how to do it as long as they have the will to do so. I will provide you with the knowledge to do your own sprinkler system, but you must have the drive to tackle this project yourself and do it right. I believe that anyone who can read this, is physically fit, and has the want to build their own irrigation system can accomplish this task themselves and save hundreds or thousands of dollars while still getting a quality product.

Scott
http://www.autolawnsprinklers.com

Difference between commercial & residential irrigation systems

2009-05-17T10:42:00.000-07:00

While the end result is pretty much the same, there are some differences between residential and commercial irrigation systems. Residential sprinkler systems are those designed and installed for individual single family homes. Commercial systems are designed and built for larger properties and landscapes such as large apartment complexes, townhomes, businesses, roadsides, and schools.

The main difference between these two types of systems are the size of the zones. When designing a commercial irrigation system you normally want to plan on having a larger water source. This is done by using a bigger well and pump. You want more volume and more pressure so that you can design bigger zones (individual sections of an irrigation system). A bigger water source and larger zones will allow you to cover more area per section and allow you to have less zones than if you were to have a smaller water source. This is important because the more zones that you have, the more maintenance time and cost you will have down the road. You obviously want less maintenance.

Another difference between the two types are the materials used, such as the main components like the sprinkler controller (timer) and the sprinkler heads. Commercial systems usually use bigger rotors that are able to cover more square feet than your typical residential rotor. A common residential sprinkler head that I use on residential systems are the Rain Bird 5000 series rotor. On a commercial system I like to use the 7000 series rotors because they cover more area as I just mentioned. Also home systems will normally use 1" valves compared to 1&1/2" or 2" valves on commercial irrigation systems.

Of course with a larger water source, bigger valves, and bigger sprinkler heads comes bigger pipe to properly carry the amount of water being demanded. Not all commercial systems need to be designed with larger or different components, it really all depends on the size and type of landscape that you are trying to cover. There are some commercial systems that I have designed and built that are pretty much identical to the way that I do residential systems. The reason for this is because the size and shape of the landscape did not call for the use of larger components.

Just remember that your sprinkler system design all starts with your water source. You can build big zones, with big pipe and big heads, but it will not work properly (or at all) if you do not have the volume and pressure of water needed to run the system. My ebook is perfect for the planning of just about all residential lawn irrigation systems, and small commercial systems. If you have the task of designing or bidding for a large commercial system, my ebook will still teach you the basics, but some of the details would vary slightly. If you need any help, have any questions, or would like a bid on an automatic commercial irrigation system, please feel free to contact me.

Scott
http://www.autolawnsprinklers.com

Cut Lawn & Landscape Shrubs Around Sprinkler Heads

2009-05-13T16:29:00.000-07:00

Sometimes I get a questions something like, "what is the best way to cut my lawn around the sprinkler heads?" Well, my answer to this question is that you shouldn't have to worry about it if your sprinkler heads are properly installed! The sprinkler heads should be just below grade level so that you can run over them with a lawnmower and not cause any damage to them. But, you don't want the heads too low either because they can get clogged up with dirt or not pop up high enough to get proper water coverage on your grass.

Many people have sprinkler heads on risers or pipe that put the spray above bushes. These type of heads can get cut when trimming your shrubs if you are not careful. It is best to turn on your system and identify where each sprinkler head is located prior to cutting your bushes. Use a small mark-out flag, a stick, or anything that will bring your attention to where the heads are located so that you do not cut them.

I actually don't like sprinkler heads on risers because I think they look ugly. Some people may argue that you must have them in certain cases, but I disagree. It is true that it may be the most convenient way to get water coverage over a bush and on to the entire bed or lawn area, but proper watering can be accomplished another way.

If you have separate zones for your lawn and shrub/flower beds then you do not have to water above the bushes. Remember that you don't really need to water the tops of the bushes, it is the root system that needs the water. You can use typical 4" pop-up sprays and let them water the ground underneath the leaves on the plants or bushes. You could also install drip tube for the flower beds. Just make sure that no plants are blocking coverage over your lawn area. This method of watering will be out of sight and not create the eye-sore of big tall, leaning sprinkler heads.

Scott
http://www.autolawnsprinklers.com/

Summer Irrigation System Preparation

2009-05-11T11:32:00.000-07:00

It is almost a nice and hot 90 degrees here in North Florida today and while it is not officially summer yet, it sure feels like it. Many of you have already tuned up your irrigation system at the beginning of Spring, but for those of you have not you better hurry because Summer is well on its' way and the relentless heat will not have mercy on your lawn and landscape.

While we do get many rainy months, especially during the summer, it is still crucial to have your lawn sprinkler system up to par to keep your yard in good condition. Even if it rains for a week straight, all it takes is about three days of no rain and hot temperatures for your lawn to dry up and need water again. With the sandy soil conditions making the ground very permeable, watering needs to be done frequently. A good rule of thumb is to water about once every three days, depending on weather conditions.

Areas which have more of a clay based soil can go longer in between watering because the soil holds the moisture in longer, but regular watering is still required to maintain a lush, green lawn and landscape. Typically lawns require more water than many shrubs and plants, but this all depends on several factors such as what type of grass and what kind of plants/shrubs you have in your yard.

Before it is too late and you loose your beautiful landscape to harsh summer weather conditions, you should perform an irrigation systems inspection to identify any current or potential problems with your sprinkler system. Although repairs and modifications can cost some money, it is still usually much cheaper than having to replace or redo your lawn or landscape!

So, if you haven't already done so, make sure to take the time to check out your sprinkler system at your home and/or business. If you don't have the time or the knowledge, call a professional right away. Don't put it off because irrigation contractors are very busy during this time of year and you may have to wait for a few days to get service. I am on my lunch break right now, enjoying the air conditioning for a few minutes, but I'm back to work fixing sprinkler systems as soon as I'm done! Good luck and as always feel free to email me with any questions.

Scott
http://www.autolawnsprinklers.com

Replacing Irrigation Timer / Controller

2009-04-21T21:18:00.000-07:00

Replacing your automatic lawn sprinkler system's automatic controller or timer can be a pretty easy process as long as you aren't afraid of dealing with wires. If you've ever installed a car stereo, don't worry, it is even easier. But you must have some basic understanding of electricity and if you aren't comfortable using a multi-meter, then you may want to call of professional.

Most automatic timers are supplied with a 110/120 volt (+ or - 10%) power source, which is converted by a transformer which steps down the power to approximately 24 volts to keep the time, date, program schedule, etc...

The main thing is that you right down which color wire is used for each zone as well as the common on MV (master valve wires). If the same color from a different strand is used more than once, then you must do something to distinguish the wire such as twisting it, striping the insulation slightly, or cutting it a bit shorter (careful now, not too short).

Writing down the wire color for each zone or station + the other critical connection points will avoid confusion and make sure you have little to no problems as well as getting the system to run in the same sequence as before.

When switching a timer to a different model, you may have to drill new screw holes in your wood, stucco, vinyl, or brick and/or mortar, depending on your houses siding. When doing this, a good tip is to mount the timer according to the height of the upcoming valve wires and the high voltage conduit. This will make sure that you don't have any hazardous splices or worse yet, having to re-wire all those as well!

One more thing that I want to mentioned, because I get asked it pretty regularly: If you have a dial timer with built-in relay such as a Hydrotech or Intermatic, then you cannot switch to a digital timer without a lot of other tasks such as switching to electric valves or using an electric valve as a master valve and also adding a pump-start relay and all necessary connections. It can be done, but costs a lot more than just switching to a similar type timer.

Scott
http://www.autolawnsprinklers.com

Valve Sticking Open

2009-04-11T18:52:00.000-07:00

Another very common maintenance task or irrigation problem that I run into is a valve that is stuck open or in other words, a valve that won't shut down. A valve is a mechanical part that opens and closes every time that particular zone or section is used. over time the diaphragm wears down and will stick open, stick shut, or stick partially open.

This will of course affect the pressure on every other zone on the system because it is still constantly demanding water while the other zones are trying to run. On a pressurized system such as a city water source or a pump with pressure tank, the main water source will have to be shut off to get the valve to turn off or else it will not stop running. On a system with a pump and pump start relay, the valve will run while the pump is running.

This problem is caused just by normal wear & tear, or well debris such as iron accumulating in the valve over time causing it to clog and stick. This problem can be fixed by replacing the entire valve, or an easier method is to get a repair kit with replacement diaphragm for the same model and size valve. Many times the valves are an odd brand that is hard to find or a dis-continued model and in this case you will have to dig up and replace the entire valve.

If you can locate a repair-kit for that particular model valve, it is usually pretty simple. Just make sure the water supply is off, dig out enough under the valve to let water drain and not let dirt flow back in the system, and then remove the screws are bolts holding together the top and bottom half of the valve. You simple remove the top halve, remove the old diaphragm and screw the bonnet (top of valve) back on. Remember, it is very important to not let dirt get in the system if you don't want to deal with other stuck valves and clogged sprinkler heads. I always have a hand pump ready in the valve box hole ready to get all the water out so that I can make the repair nice and clean.

Instead of just using a repair-kit with replacement diaphragm, I use a brand new valve and remove the entire top, including solenoid. The reason for this is because it will save you time in the future. If the valve is old enough where it is sticking open, staying on, and not shutting off, then soon enough the electric solenoid will go out. So, I just use the whole top of a new valve. The only extra step is removing the two wires on the sprinkler multi-strand from the old solenoid to the new solenoid.

Scott
http://www.autolawnsprinklers.com

Rotor Head vs Spray Head

2009-04-06T19:57:00.000-07:00

A common question that I get asked is: "What is the main differences between a rotor head and a spray head?" Well, there are a couple of main differences between these two types of sprinkler heads that I will define for you. Neither type is superior over the other, they both have their pros and cons, it is just that each is suited better for a particular types of applications, which I will share with you now.

A spray head does not rotate or turn and will apply water approximately 3 times faster than a rotor head. Sprays come in a variety of nozzle patterns and distances commonly ranging from four to fifteen feet (there are 18 foot VAN nozzles available). The pattern come in fixed 1/4, 1/2, 3/4, of full circle 360 degrees.

There are also adjustable nozzles such as Rain Bird's VAN (variable arc nozzle) which can be adjusted from zero to 360 degrees. VAN nozzles are great for curves and certain areas, but they do use more water than a fixed nozzle adjusted to the same pattern and they do not appear to have as good or defined spray pattern. Spray heads have smaller, finer nozzles which do tend to get clogged easier. Sprays are great for smaller lawn areas, gardens, and shrubs.

Rotor heads turn or rotate, hence the name. A typical residential rotor throws an average of thirty feet. A range of 22 to 40 feet is common depending on pressure and adjustment of head. Rotor nozzles normally come with the option of one gallon to six gallon per minute nozzles. 1.5, 2.0 and 3.0 are the most commonly used nozzle sizes on residential landscape irrigation application.

Rotor have a larger nozzle opening and do not get clogged as easy as spray heads. You can use less heads and water the same amount of area with rotors compared to sprays. However, since they do rotate, they have a much lower precipitation rate than sprays, so they take about three times as long to water the same area compared to sprays. Rotors are great for larger lawn areas.

In a properly designed irrigation systems, both rotors and sprays will be used in the most appropriate places. A smart irrigation designer can determine where each type of head will be most beneficial. Also, it is not a good idea to mix rotors and sprays on the same zone (although I see it quite often while doing maintenance) because of there different precipitation rate. There are certain circumstances where rotors and sprays can be mixed and be beneficial to the landscape design, but this is left to the most advanced irrigation specialists (like myself of course) who fully understand irrigation system dynamics as well as landscape, lawns, plants, flowers, and shrubs watering needs.

Scott
http://www.autolawnsprinklers.com

Rainy Day Sprinklers

2009-03-26T12:02:00.000-07:00

What do you do with your sprinkler system on a rainy day? Well if you have a rain sensor, you don't have to do anything. The rain sensor will automatically shut the system off for you and go back to active status after the rain has cleared and the soil has dried up. The rain sensor can be set up to shut off after 1/8" to 1" of rainfall has accumulated. Most models have this adjustable setting.

If you don't have a rain sensor, you just need to turn your system off and then remember to turn it back to auto after the rain has cleared. Certain model timers, such as the Rain Bird ESP-LX Plus controller has an option that will allow you to program the system to stay off for a certain number of days and then go back to its' original program status. This feature is called "rain delay".

Depending on your landscape and soil conditions, you usually only need to water your lawn once every three days. But, as I mentioned, weather conditions, type of landscape, and soil are all other factors that will determine how often you need to water your landscape. No matter what though, don't let your sprinklers run during the rain, it is a waste of money (especially if you are using a city or municipal water source) and you can over-water your lawn causing yellowing.

Scott
http://www.autolawnsprinklers.com

Spring is Here, Get Your Sprinklers Working!

2009-03-22T09:51:00.000-07:00

It is now Spring and it is time to get your lawn sprinkler systems in shape! Many people have had their systems off all winter and when they go to turn them on, they will find many different problems that need attention.

Clogged nozzles, sprinkler heads out of adjustment, and the proper programming of the irrigation system's timer are all common things that need to be fixed at the beginning of the season. Irrigation systems that run from pumps may need to be re-primed. A very common problem that I see every Spring are pumps that have seized up due to sitting for months and not being used. It's kind of like a car that sits for a long time; the battery dies, electrical systems start to rot, etc...

Irrigation pumps accumulate debris such as iron deposits from well water and this gunks up or hardens as it sits. Then when you go to turn on your pump, it won't work. You can take apart the pump and try to clean it, but it may just be a temporary solution. Some get so bad, that they are beyond repair. This is why I recommend for people to run their sprinkler systems at least once per week in the Winter (unless you live where it is snowing and freezing of course).

During the off-season or Winter month's try to run the system when the temperature is above freezing, even if it is just a short cycle. This will keep the parts moving and prevent them from going bad. This can also happen to valves and sprinkler heads, as well as pumps.

Take some time this Spring and get your lawn sprinkler system back in shape before it gets too hot and the Summer month's approach. After all, a few repairs or a new pump is cheaper than loosing all your grass and plants and having to pay for a whole new landscape!

Scott
http://www.autolawnsprinklers.com

Run Your System in the Winter

2009-01-14T20:17:00.000-08:00

The most common question that I get asked is "should I water my landscape in the winter" and the answer is Yes! Of course, certain plants are not freeze tolerant and will die if the are not freeze protected. Your lawn may go dormant, but the roots are still alive. They still get thirsty. Of course this demand is less than in July, but the living roots are still thirsty for water, does that make sense?

So, depending on different factors such as soil conditions, landscape material, geographical location, lawn sprinkler system design, your need to water will vary. But a good rule of thumb for the common southern lawn is at least once to twice per week during the winter or "cold" months. Which could be really only 2 months in certain areas in the south. Try to water on days where it does not get below freezing at night. If it does consistently, then try to water later in the morning after the temperature gets above freezing. There a lot of days in this part of Florida where it is common to get down to 29 Fahrenheit degrees at night and up to 65 or 70 during the day. This is great growing conditions for different types of plants and grasses.

Another benefit of running your sprinkler system at least once to twice per week is to keep the parts moving. A system is like a car in the way that letting it just sit is the worst thing you can do to it. What happens to a car if you let it sit? The battery dies, the tires go flat, electrical systems can start to rot, interior can degrade, etc... you get the point. An automatic lawn sprinkler system has many working parts. Especially if you have a well & pump setup. If you have a foot valve, all that sediment sitting inside the drop-pipe, which is inside the well will build up and actually cause the foot valve to stick.

Also pumps can seize or "freeze" up do to rust or other sediment settling over time. Valves have a tendency to stick when not used for a long time. When you use your system regularly these kings of things usually do not happen. Remember the expression "If you don't use it, you loose it".

Scott
http://www.autolawnsprinklers.com

Warm Winter in Florida

2009-01-10T20:18:00.000-08:00

While the rest of the country was enduring freezing, sub-zero temperatures, and even snow in New Orleans, Louisiana, Florida was buffered from this as we experienced average 70 degree days and even warmer with the humidity. Okay, I'm not meaning to write this to make everyone who does not live here jealous, I'm just giving thanks for our local environment.

We've had a couple of below 32 degree night here in Okaloosa County, Florida, but mainly in the Northern part of the County, not near the coast. These warm temperatures are keeping grasses (that are well taken care of) alive and making plants bloom early.

I heard on the news that the past ten years, the average temperature of our earth has gotten hotter increasingly each year. If this is the case, my norther county properties may become water-front properties some day! No, I'm just kidding. I did not mean to offend anyone who lives directly on the coast. I have many loyal customers who live or have homes on the beach or other water front areas. It takes special care and maintenance to maintain an exotic landscape near salt-water. It can be done by the proper selection of plants, grasses, trees, and an efficient automatic landscape irrigation systems. Each particular design depends on the closeness to water source, buffers or barriers, and other factors.

We are bound to have another freeze or two, but I would not count on too many, which really is that bad of news to most of us. We are always ready for Spring and Summer comes quick in Florida as well as the need for irrigation. As well as the book I provide on this site, you may always contact me or our company at the phone number listed at the bottom of our home page.

Good luck and I wish the rest of the country a short winter and an early Spring!

Happy Irrigation & Landscaping

Scott
http://www.autolawnsprinklers.com

New Year, New Sprinkler System, New Money

2009-01-03T07:22:00.000-08:00

Okay everybody 2008 is gone in the wind and 2009 is here! "The Sun Will Shine in 2009!" is a saying that I've read and heard and helps to give enthusiasm to a country that needs it. With all of the Real Estate and economical and problems of 2008, there has created an "energy" of less circulating around. This "energy" is a combination of real life financial crisis's such as huge bank bail-outs, the credit markets, and mostly overall it is about the general population's attitude as a whole.

Out at work or at the store you will over-hear someone everyday talking about how horrible the economy is and things are going to get worse...bla...bla...bla... Okay I know that many of us are in financial dire-straights, but we can overcome this. Of course our leaders at the top of government and in the corporate world can help by giving us a jump start and get some money (known as Federal Reserve Notes) circulation around the economy, but we must take action ourselves as well.

Don't be afraid to spend, don't be afraid to invest. Take advantage of downed prices and the current market. Now is the best time ever to invest in a lot of things, particularly Real Estate, precious metals such as gold & silver, and some certain stocks (beware and get professional advice). Some experts are saying that this downward economical trend will continue until mid-way through this year or until 2010. Let's prove them wrong by each individual taking action. If you lost your job and can't find a new one, don't just sit around...get creative. This gives you opportunity to find something new. Maybe you can start something online or maybe that is not for you, but there is something out there for everyone. Maybe you want to open your own restaurant, but have never had the chance. Go for it!

But you might say, "Scott, how can I start a new business in a down economy?" Get creative. Contrary to popular belief, the credit-markets are not frozen. Banks are lending money (it's their #1 job) and it is how they make money! The banks want to loan money! Also, you can get creative like me and start slow. When I first started Advanced Irrigation I was broke and had no credit. I had to write contracts to ask my customers for 40% just so that I could buy the materials. Now I can proudly provide jobs to customers for 0% down and 100% upon completion because I slowly worked my credit score and payment history up. But my point is that I didn't let having no money or no credit stop me.

My website cost me peanuts. I do them all myself and I didn't even go to school for it. I learned through "real life" training. I did buy a few small, inexpensive paper-back books at first to help, but then quickly learned that there is a wealth of information already publsihed online to help you learn simple website design. Next I focused on what it took to get a website to the top of Google and Yahoo rankings. This did not cost me any money, just time and hard work.

You may think your options are limited, but when you open your eyes you will seee that they are limitless. You will go no further than your mind allows. So, let's all open our minds and focus on an improved economy. Those already with money, don't horde it! Let's get this money circulating in the economy. Those currently without money, get creative. Find Grants, Loans, come up with new and exciting business ideas and then go for it!

For those of you reading this blog, get a sprinkler system installed if you don't already have one! Start moving money around by spending your money with small business. Small business is the past and future of our society. Back before big corporations ruled, over 80% of people worked for themselves! Now with the Internet, more and more people are working from home and I see our economy moving more in the direction of the 1800 and early 1900's before industrialism, with individuals providing services and goods to individuals.

Okay, enough of my ranting for now. Let's all get out and make some money, spend some money, and help each other out. Good luck to everyone reading this and I hope you have a very prosperous 2009!

Scott
http://www.autolawnsprinklers.com

Slow December for Irrigation Get Discounts

2008-12-27T13:41:00.000-08:00

Many people around the country think that during the Winter we do not do irrigation, but that is not true. Here in Florida, many people use and need landscape irrigation year round. Many people lay winter rye grass which needs to be watered frequently, or even for those who don't over-seed with Rye, you should still water your grass once to twice a week, depending on weather conditions, even if your grass is dormant. Even though it is brown on top, it still needs water and the roots will become week if don't water.

In other parts of the country where it snows, then of course people don't need irrigation, but in the Southern United States normal irrigation is needed. Service work such as broke pipes, wiring issues, broken sprinkler heads, etc.. does die down in the short winter season that we have here because some people do shut their systems off or put off fixing minor problems until Spring. Normally our company has plenty of new installations through the winter for home-builders building new houses, but we have been effected by a weak Real Estate Market and economy last winter and this year, so sales are way down.

We (our company) do anticipate things to picks up in 2009 as there are several projects currently in the works. But for now, things are a little slow, which isn't too bad as it gives us more time to spend with family, but I'm a work-a-holic and I'm ready to get back to work! We are only averaging about 3 service calls a day compared to about 12 a day in the spring and summer, plus installing a least one brand new sprinkler system once a week and numerous free estimates that I do.

So, if you live in the area that I service, take advantage of our slow season and give us a call! I'm up for giving Winter Discounts if you mention that you read this blog. Of course, don't ask me for a winter discount once it is March, because that is when everything picks up for us regardless of the Real Estate Market. About 85% of our annual maintenance program contracts are renewed in mid to late February and their first of four quarterly visits are in March.

I'll write a blog explaining our maintenance program in a little more detail for those who are interested. Of course, you can always give our office a call at 850-729-7110 to ask any questions. I wish everyone a happy holiday season and let's have a prosperous new year!

Scott
http://www.autolawnsprinklers.com

Winterizing Irrigation in the South

2008-11-12T19:18:00.000-08:00

In the southern parts of the United States there is very little winterizing compared to the northern states or colder climates. In the south, you do not have to blow out or drain all the lines. You can drain your pump, but it is better to just insulate it and run your system at least once per week.

The biggest mistake that I see customers make is to turn off their system for 3 months. This is especially bad on systems with wells. The well debris hardens inside the pump and can cause the pump motor to seize up. Foot valves and check valves go bad when they sit. It's common sense when you think about it. If you don't use it, you loose it. What happens to a car when you let it sit? The battery dies, the fuel injections lines rot, parts rust easier, etc...

Of course you don't want to water during a freeze, but there are plenty of days where it is above freezing for the entire day and even night. Watering once to twice per week is usually fine in the winter in the Southern United States.

You should insulate or cover up your pump, above ground back-flow preventer, and any pipes that are above ground. Any pipes installed above ground should at least be schedule 40, which is thicker pipe, but even this can freeze crack. Simple insulate the pipes with foil insulation tape from Ace Hardware, Home Depot, Lowes, or other hardware store. There is also a foam style wrapper which can be used together with the tape. Just get the right size foam insulation according to the pipe size you are insulating (3/4", 1", 1&1/4", 1 & 1/2", etc...).

Submersible pumps are down in the deep in the well and obviously don't need to be insulated. Above ground centrifugal or shallow well pumps are the most likely to freeze crack. There is a particular seem in the housing or volute which is a weak spot in the metal. To insulate your pump you can use the foil tape, build or buy a pump house cover, or wrap it up with thick blankets.

Make sure you only wrap the housing (the part that holds water) and not the motor. The motor is the long end with vent holes on it. It needs to breath or it will get too hot and catch fire. I've seen houses that have caught on fire because of people wrapping blankets around the whole pump, including the motor. Just a word of caution! It's common sense really, but not everyone gets it, so I have to educate people.

The regular grass in the south goes dormant in the winter months. It turns brown on top, but the root system is still alive, and this is why I still say that you should water once to twice per week. Those who shut their system off completely will weaken or kill off their grass after 3 months of no water. Weeds will come back in the spring, not grass!

Good luck with you winter irrigation watering. If you have any questions, feel free to contact me.

Scott
http://www.autolawnsprinklers.com

Rainbird DV 100 Electric Valves

2008-10-31T21:54:00.000-07:00

The Rainbird DV-100 series valves are a very good commercial grade valve that is commonly used on lawn sprinkler systems. The 100 basically stands for 1". There is also a DV-150, which is an 1&1/2 inch input and output.

The DV series Rainbird valves come in slip, female threaded, union fittings, or barbed for poly-pipe. I prefer the slip for ease of installation, and if plumbed correctly repairs are not bad like some contractors may claim. With all electric, in-ground valves, the valve box should be centered around the valve so that you can have easy access to remove the screws (or bolts on some other brands).

A common maintenance item is the diaphragm going bad, which can be fixed by replacing it with a repair kit. To do this you need to remove the eight #2 Phillips head screws and pull out the old diaphragm

The female threaded series are good, but of course you have to have (2), 1" male adapters for the input or in-flow side and one for the output or out-flow side. You apply either Teflon tape of Teflon paste to the male threads before attaching to the valves to make a good seal and also to make it easier to remove if ever needed. Replacing an entire valve can be easier with a threaded valve compared to a slip because you can remove the valve without cutting it. You can even install a new slip valve by using a 1" female adapter. This is 1" slip on one side and 1" female threaded on the other so it can attach to an existing male adapter. But, if you don't know what you are doing, it can be difficult and you could break other pipes, so please be careful.

The barbed series are perfect for those who build their entire system on barbed poly-pipe I don't personally use the poly-pipe for the entire system, only the small 1/2" Rainbird flex (polyurethane) pipe. Coming off the PVC lateral lines we use the pre-fabricated Rainbird swing assemblies which are 12" long. We thread the 1/2" male threaded side of the barbed fitting into the threaded fittings (tee or 90) and then use the other end, which contains a marlex (a.k.a. street elbow) after the barbed fitting, to attach the sprinkler head, whether it be a rotor head or a spray head.

It is rare that you have to replace the entire valve, but there are cases where it is needed. If the main body cracks, such as freeze crack, then the whole valve will have to be replaced. When replacing the diaphragm I also recommend replacing the solenoid, so basically the whole top or bonnet of the valve. The reason why is because the electric solenoids go out after an average of 7 years and have to be replaced. The sometimes go out first, so if the valve is 4 years old, it would be wise to just go ahead and put a new solenoid on while you are replacing the bad diaphragm.

The diaphragm repair kits do not come with solenoids, so to do what I mentioned you will need an entire valve. Just get a new valve and remove the entire top to have ready before replacing the old one. Have plenty of space dug out around and underneath the valve, be prepared to manually, hand-pump water out of the hole, or scoop it out with a cup. You don't want sand, rocks, and other debris getting inside the line! The water main drain for a minute or two, but will eventually stop because it is just draining out the water in the lateral lines. O ya, DON'T FORGET to shut off the main water line prior to working on the valve!

If you are on city water, you should be able to shut off the water supply to the valves with one of the ball valve handles on the back-flow prevention device. If you are on a well & pump with a pump-start relay, just make sure that the pump does not turn on and pressurize the line. Otherwise, you are good because with a relay your line is only pressurized when the system runs.

If your sprinkler system uses a well, pump, pressure tank, and pressure switch, then you will also have to shut the main water supply to the irrigation system prior to any valve work. These systems usually have a ball valve or gate valve for the main shut off.

Good luck with your repairs and if you have any questions, feel free to email me.

Scott
http://www.autolawnsprinklers.com

Rain Bird 5000 Series Rotors

2008-09-14T21:29:00.000-07:00

A great mid-grade, durable, and dependable rotor head that we love to use are the 5000 series Rain Bird gear driven rotor heads. They come with patented Rain Curtain nozzles for excellent water distribution. There are many other rotors on the market that try to imitate the Rain Curtain technology, but in all my field experience, nothing compares.

There are a few different sizes and models in the Rain Bird 5000 series sprinkler product line-up, but the most popularly used is the standard 5004 - PC (part circle and 4" pop up height). There are more expensive rotors and there are also cheaper rotors, but dollar for dollar, myself and my company have found the 500 series rotors to be the best "bang for your buck". The design of these rotors are an improvement on the old Rainbird R-50 models, mainly because of the rugged, gear-driven design, and better performance under lower water pressures compared to previous models of sprinkler heads.

The 5000 series rotors come in 5004 (4" pop-up), 5006 (6" pop-up), and 5012 (12 pop-up.) Different landscapes may call for different size rotors, but for the most grasses, the 5004 will work great. In slightly thicker grasses, they are cut higher, the 5006 rotors work better. The 5012 models are mainly used behind shrubs are some obstruction to help clear the path of the spray.

I highly recommend purchasing your Rainbird rotors through my favorite Irrigation & Sprinkler Parts Store.

When designing a new system I use all the same brand materials. When doing repairs, sometimes it is more practical to use a repair kit on the existing item, but when it comes to sprinkler heads, I say change them all out with Rain Bird 5000's as your other ones go bad!

Scott
http://www.autolawnsprinklers.com

Sprinkler System Parts

2008-09-02T21:02:00.000-07:00

I get emails and phone calls all the time from people looking to purchase lawn sprinkler and irrigation system parts. However, I do not currently sell parts, but I have found a great, reliable irrigation parts supplier that has the best prices, warranties, and customer service.

You can find the website by clicking the link below:

Sprinkler System Parts

Chas with Evergreen Sprinklers is a very nice guy to work with. Him and his staff treat people well and provide quality irrigation/ lawn sprinkler system parts. You can find everything from replacement parts to brand new items. They sell brands such as Rain Bird, Hunter, and Toro. They carry all kinds of sprinkler materials such as spray heads, rotor heads, swing assemblies, funny pipe, pvc fittings, timers/controllers, wire, electric valves, and other accessories.

Give this site a shot, I highly recommend them based on price comparison and customer service. You can always go to your local irrigation wholesaler, but ordering over the Internet has become convenient and price comparable.

Sprinkler System Parts

Scott
http://www.autolawnsprinklers.com

Spared from Hurricane Irrigation Landscape Good

2008-09-01T17:33:00.000-07:00

I feel very sorry for the people in Louisiana & Mississippi right now as they have taken the brunt of Hurricane Gustav. There will no doubt be a mess to clean up and some destruction to construction projects in the middle of production. This is the bad part about living on the Gulf Coast, but it is still a beautiful place to live.

We were spared in my are in Northwest Florida, we just got a few wind gust of maybe 30 mph and a few heavy rains at times, but nothing major compared to what we have been through before. The storm surge predicted last night was lower than expected which is good for those in low-lying areas, such as houses on the water or those in flood zones.

This should prove to be very minimal damage and should not affect our direct area as bad as the previous storms we have endured in the past such as Hurricane Ivan, Hurricane Katrina, and Hurricane Opal.

Hurricanes are serious things and not to be taken lightly. Those who haven't been through the aftermath of horrible storms don't quite understand the importance of preparation. Even if you prepare and nothing happens, at least you are one step closer to being ready for the next big storm, which is bound to happen in this region of the U.S.A.

My heart goes out to all of those who caught the direct hit and devastation of the storm. For those of you who were spared, be thankful and be prepared for the next one. We are in the prime of Hurricane Season!

Scott
http://www.autolawnsprinklers.com

Hurricane Gustav Storm Surge

2008-08-31T21:50:00.000-07:00

Hurricane Gustave is in the Gulf of Mexico and quickly approaching land with a projected patch with Louisiana right in the middle. Much of Louisiana and certain areas in Mississippi have had mandatory evacuation.

It doesn't appear that we'll be nailed dead on here in Niceville, Bluewater, Fort Walton Beach, Navarre, Pensacola, Santa Rosa Beach, and Panama City Beach Area, bu there will still be tropical storm force winds to deal with, along with a projected 3' - 6' storm surge from Hurricane Gustav. That surge can put houses that are on the water in danger as there irrigation pumps can get easily damaged once submerged in, or even heavily sprayed salt water. Also, if trees come up-rooted, many pipes will also come up-rooted and have to be repaired. We stocked up on ice today, canned goods, water, propane, charcoal, and more. We topped off gas in all the work trucks and personal vehicles yesterday before the prices went up too much

Hopefully we are all spared from major damage as I want everyone to remain safe. Just remember to always be prepared.

Scott
http://www.autolawnsprinklers.com

Clogged Rotary & Spray Nozzles

2008-08-26T21:18:00.000-07:00

If your landscape irrigation system's water source is from a well with a lot of minerals such as iron or other natural debris, you may have to deal with clogged nozzles a lot more frequently than systems that run off of cleaner wells or municipal/city water supplies.

Spray nozzles come with the screens separate and must be installed prior to installing the nozzle on the spray head. This screen will catch the debris and save the spray nozzle. You can easily wash out or just replace the screen for much cheaper than the nozzle.

Rotary nozzles have a screen already attached, so the installation is one step. If the rotatory nozzle screen becomes clogged, you can easily snap the screen off and clean or replace. However, if debris gets into the rotary nozzle, than it is usually very difficult to save the rotatory nozzle and you'll have to replace the whole thing, not just the screen.

Normal rotor heads (not rotary nozzle on spray heads) are the toughest with rougher water sources. Sprays and Rotary Nozzles will have much more maintenance on the dirtier water sources, so keep this in consideration when designing your system.

Scott
http://www.autolawnsprinklers.com

We Replace Submersible Pumps

2008-08-13T20:52:00.000-07:00

We just got done replacing another submersible pump. This pump was inside a 4" PVC well and was a 3hp (horse power) 50 gpm (gallons per minuet) pump that was hanging on 1&1/4" schedule 80 PVC drop pipe. This pump's power source was supplied with standard residential 1 phase power, not commercial 3 phase electrical which I have worked with on occasion.

Every 20 feet was an 1&1/4" galvanized threaded coupling. The well was approximately 360' feet and the pump was hanging 160' feet down in the well. The water table was approximately 60 feet. I would have used at least 1&1/2" or 2" PVC schedule 80 pipe instead of the 1&1/4" pipe. We got just under 40 gallons per minute from the pump at open discharge. The reason for this is because of the distance to water and the size of the drop pipe.

If the water table was higher, the 3hp 50 gpm pump would deliver more (or a higher volume of) water. Also, the drop pipe is restricting the volume and thus pressure. To top this all off, the irrigation system was over-sized. What I mean by this is that most of the zones were demanding too much water or more water than the pump could keep up with.

There are a couple of possible solutions to this problem. The 160' feet of 1&1/4" drop pipe can be replaced with 2" schedule 80, or all the zones demanding too many gallons per minute can be lowered by changing nozzles and/or sprinkler heads. For example, there is one particular zone with twelve 3.0 (three gallons per minute per head) that demanding about 36 gpms . By changing just half of the nozzles to 2.0's, I can lower the demand of this zone by 6 gallons per minute.

Of course, you want to try and achieve matched precipitation, but in practice it is difficult to get it exact and imitate mother nature's precise even watering. So, you want to do your best to design, layout, and build a sprinkler system that will water as evenly and efficiently as possible. Some irrigation contractors can do this better than others...

The system also operated with a pressure tank, specifically a bladder or diaphragm tank and uses a 30/50 psi pressure switch. We also installed a new pressure tank which came pre-charged with air. I lowered the psi in the tank to 28psi before installing and filling it with water. So, the system actually operates on a 28/48 psi cut-on and cut-off range.

Submersible pumps are powerful because the push directly rather than having to create a vacuum or suction like a centrifugal pump, or use hydraulics to force water to the surface like a jet pump. Replacing your submersible pump can be easy or hard depending on your knowledge, skill, tools, and strength. If you have never replaced a sub-pump, I do not recommend doing it. You should only do it if you have had replaced these types of pumps with an experienced person with you to help teach you.

Scott
http://www.autolawnsprinklers.com

Pulling and Replacing Submersible Pumps

2008-08-11T23:15:00.000-07:00

Today we replaced a 3hp 50 gpm (3 horse power/ 50 gallons per minute) submersible pump. The well the 362 feet deep. The pump was hanging on the standard 20 foot sticks of 1&1/4" schedule 80 PVC. The pump / drop pipe was only hanging 160 feet. The depth to the water table was close to 90 feet.

We replaced the old pump and 12-gauge solid strand twisted 4 wire. The colors are red, black, yellow, and green. The type of sub pump that we use is called a "3 wire motor" even though there are four wires, they don't count the green ground wire I guess! There are also two wire submersible motors available (actually have three wires including the ground), but I do not use them and recommend against them.

The three wire motor has the main advantage of utilizing a piece called a control box which contains the starter capacitors and relays and this box is installed above ground. A two wire motor has the start capacitor together with the motor. The reason why this is bad is because the most common thing for to go out on a sub is the start capacitor or relay and if your system only has a three wire motor, you will have to extract and replace the whole pump! If you use a three wire motor, when the start capacitor or relay in the control box goes out, it is easily replaced above ground without having to remove 200, 400, 600 feet of pipe or even more!

If you do not have a specialty truck with a wench and proper pipe clamps this process can be a labor intensive task, but can be done with the use of another specialty tool. A pipe pulling clamp will help hold the pipe has you pull it up and remove it. Every twenty (20ft) feet there will be a threaded connection that you must undo. The pipe pulling clamp help hold the weight of the rest of the pipe and sub pump so that it does not fall to the bottom of the well!

Be prepared do get covered in water because every 20 feet you will have to unscrew the metal or galvanized coupling and water will rush out fast on you! I have seen a few sub pump hanging with schedule 40 PVC, on glue fittings, but the majority of subs are on 1&1/4", 1&1/2" or 2" schedule 80 male threaded pipe ends.

When replacing submersible pumps, we normally replace all the wire just to be on the safe side. You can end up nicking the wire as the pump is pulled up and removed, plus the wires could have a short in them, so it is best to put new wire in. I don't replace the drop pipe unless it looks in horrible shape, or is the wrong type.

It's not an easy job, but a satisfying one, that is for sure. If you ever have any questions regarding sprinklers, irrigation, and pumps, feel free to contact me and I'd be glad to help you!

Scott Young
http://www.autolawnsprinklers.com

Stuck Foot Valve

2008-08-09T06:42:00.000-07:00

I'm about to go to remove a stuck foot valve from a 2" PVC well. The foot valve hangs on 1&1/4" schedule 40 PVC drop pipe and has a jet close to the bottom of the drop pipe. The well is about 50 feet and the drop pipe is only about 35 feet.

The foot valve assemblies here are assembled with pieces called spring dogs & rubber packers which expand to help hold prime with the foot valve. Some contractors use "leathers" to hold prime, but the leathers tend to break down sooner over time and can also get stuck when being pulled up...we prefer the spring dog and rubber grommet/packer system. However, other issues and factors beyond our control produce problems that must be solved with some out of the box thinking and good old American Ingenuity.

I will give away a few trade secrets, but not all..maybe I'll sell those later. Here are a few tips and solutions to help you get out a stuck foot valve or drop pipe on a jet pump setup:

1. If the drop pipe is broken, remove the PVC out of well that has broken off.

2. Use an "extractor" a.k.a. "1&/4" tap" assembled to the end of a stick 1&1/4" galvanized.

3. Insert the extractor inside the 1&1/4 drop pipe and tighten to make new threads inside

4. Once the extractor is definitively tapped in, then you must slowly back off (turn the 1&1/4 pipe counter clockwise to loosen the neoprene grommet (this part of the step is not necessary if your drop pipe hangs with leathers.

5. Gently pull up the drop pipe. Do not yank! This will cause pipe breakage! You must apply equal force on both side, so it helps to have a 2nd hand. You may need to cut it every 20 feet if your are not experienced. If you do it carefully you can avoid cutting the drop pipe and string it up in some trees if there are some nearby. If you do have to cut, make sure to use "tapered" 11&1/4" thin couplings for your joints or connections.

6. Your drop pipe is removed from the well and you can now replace your foot valve! Be sure to clean or replace the jet if needed. It corrodes over time and also sediment gets built up inside which can seriously reduce flow and eventually clog up the jet. If the jet is just clogged and not corroded you can clean out the passage ways with a flat head screwdriver and rinsing it out with water. If it is really corroded, then I would recommend replacing it with a new one.

Scott

http://www.autolawnsprinklers.com